Mongolia Part 5: Now for something completely different

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The night was again noisy with some domestic issues of the hotel staff and an actual cat fight at 1 am. Because of the “the staff was not in “ for breakfast and we went back to the lunch spot from yesterday. Back to the point it again! (Fried eggs, toast, fake nutella, and coffee).


The day is better and the forecast is for sun. We had dried out all our gear and set out about 1030 for Tsetserleg in 354 km. We had been told the “road is paved all the way to UB in 835 Km. This is true except a few stretches in total less than 30 km today.

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It was a straight road for the most part thru vast valleys and sweeping scenery.


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There is almost nothing in between the towns except some prayer mounds and for lunch the guys had ice cream. Sara was stopping every 45 min for an emergency visit to a culvert as there is no shade or shelter. Unlike at home gas stations and many restaurants do not have toilets or out houses even. Most don’t have running water.

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Fermented mares milk anyone??

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Tire decontamination 500T


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City toll 500T, but he decided we did not need to pay.


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We are headed to the Fairfield hotel, but they are full and so we ended up next door. Sara and Dan got a private room and bath and the guys rooms with a shared bath. They were told they had to pay for a hot shower so they all visited the marital suite. The food  at the Fairfield  is good and not a rendition of food we are used to, but actually like we are used to.

Sara was still not leaving the room and it got worse for her. By 3 am she was very ill, dehydrated, and hyponatremic. This is caused by losing too much salt and water. The symptoms are confusion, vomiting, and loss of balance. She had all these and could not even walk. Exhausted she passed out and Dan had to stay up to make sure she was breathing and did not aspirate.  When she awoke at 8 she could tolerate some juice and we mixed up the oral re-hydration salts we have been caring for 5 years.



The hotel staff decided let us stay at least until 3 and the other guys went on 118 km to a ger camp in Karkhorin.

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By 2 pm Sara could stand up and did eat some toast. The road is paved and passes a lot of ger camps and horse farms. there are a few bumpy section, but Sara seemed ok.



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Moving day for the ger.

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It was not until we turned off on to the gravel road for about 1 km that she started to feel dizzy and by the time she got off the bike she could barely walk. Dan half carried her to the Ger. More gastrolyte and by 10 pm she was 85% better. That was scary for sure, but not as scary as a visit to a rural  Mongolian medical clinic. The other guys had done an off road route while waiting for us and said it was amazing.

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The plan was for all the guys to ride  again today while Sara rested, but just before they left Wolfgang noted his new Wilber’s rear shock was leaking oil. He packed up and headed to Ulanbaatar to see if the KTM there can help him out. We will meet him at the Famous Oasis Ger camp there tomorrow.


Dan and Trevor took off for a days ride and went up the same valley that Trevor was on yesterday, but on the other side of the river. They got to where they wanted to try to cross the river, but it was still pretty deep. Luckily a truck came by and he asked if they wanted a lift across the river.

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The forecast was ominous and the clouds moved in just after we had been to the car wash of course.

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The forecast was for thundershowers and the sky was cloudy and dark. It was however not raining and we decided to go for it and ride the 372 km to Ulanbaatar to catch up with Wolfgang.

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On the way we stopped in town to explore the Erdene Zuu Monastery , which is the earliest surviving Buddhist monastery in Mongolia.

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6 Responses to Mongolia Part 5: Now for something completely different

  1. Kathy Knezeak says:

    Sara, You are an inspiration! What a trooper! Safe travels to all.

  2. Mashoud Janjua says:

    Absolutely spectacular and a source of envy. You guys deserve a prize for opening the eyes of many to the wonders of this planet with its rainbow of humanity and mind boggling traditions and folklore , each deserving respect and recognition.

    BTW, Sara , you exude happiness and are getting younger by the day. Daniel looks so fit and content and ever so youthful.

    Keep on pedalling and God bless.

    • Daniel says:

      Thanks so much! Looking well if not younger, but thanks! The plan was to see what the lives of the peoples of the planet are like! Sara

  3. Danielle says:

    So glad you recovered Sara. You are like the Ever Ready Bunny–you just keep on going!
    The landscape, people and monuments continue to inspire us all.
    We had the first snow of the season in Vancouver TODAY! Temps just dropped.
    Love to read yours posts–keep them coming.
    Stay safe and Enjoy every minute!

    • Daniel says:

      We saw the snow wow! We just missed the typhoon in central Vietnam. It is now flooded and so we are going to the south to Phuquoc island and then to Hoi an…Kite surf mecca. We are enjoing a visit with Gill and Bruno and my mom as well. Sara

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